Discover the Heartfelt Revival of Heirloom Recipes: Meet the Passionate Chefs at Ajit Bhawan, Jodhpur
In the moonlit gardens of Ajit Bhawan, a historic palace in Jodhpur, I find myself in a cabbage patch alongside Chef Bikram Chandra Khadka. As he deftly maneuvers a hoe through the fertile soil, a gleam of anticipation sparks in the air. After a brief moment, we uncover a steamy bundle wrapped in sackcloth: a handi containing slow-cooked meat, its rich aroma intermingling with the earthy scent of the ground around us. Dinner is ready to be served.
Ajit Bhawan, constructed in 1927 as the residence of Maharaj Dhiraj Sir Ajit Singh, has evolved into a captivating heritage hotel that blends the opulence of royal Rajasthan with modern culinary innovation. Unlike many heritage hotels that lean on historical clichés, Ajit Bhawan is redefining traditional Rajasthani cuisine. It breathes new life into forgotten royal recipes, creating an enticing dining experience for today’s discerning guests.
My first meal, jungli maas, is incredibly fulfilling. This traditional dish features lean, flavorful mutton from Narlai village, where the sheep roam freely and graze on the region’s arid grasses. Prepared with ghee, salt, garlic, and Mathania chillies-known for their nuanced, smoky heat-this dish remains true to its royal hunting origins. Chef Bikram shares that while the palace has shifted toward lighter fare like salads and soups, the hotel’s kitchen is a vibrant space for testing extravagant dishes that honor the past.
The family behind Ajit Bhawan is notable for creating one of India’s first heritage hotels. As I check in, Magan Kanwar, the assistant front office manager, reflects on the family’s dedication to hospitality, saying, “Maharaj Swaroop Singh ji would emphasize that every guest is an ambassador.” They continue this commitment, maintaining a close relationship with both staff and visitors, exemplified by events like the annual Holi celebrations.
The royals still reside on part of the sprawling six-acre estate, creating a unique connection with guests. Suraj Panwar, the reservations manager, describes how the family oversees the hotel’s operations, from approving fabrics to tending gardens. The result is a charming retreat where the past is honored in whimsical ways; guests indulge in samosas for high tea beneath garden canopies, while kachoris are enjoyed in the elegant Gol Kamra, adorned with chandeliers and vintage decor.
As night falls, we are drawn to the atmospheric bar beneath a ceiling embellished with vintage palanquins. The flickering lamps illuminate our path back to our rooms, a nightly ritual performed with care by the palace staff. The handi, the highlight of our dinner at Dhani, the open-air restaurant, embodies the essence of luxury: patience. Chef Bikram explains that the meat was marinated for eight hours before being wrapped and buried in the ground, enriching it with deep flavors.
The dinner includes classic dishes like khada maans, traditionally made with game meat, and a decadent thali featuring mutton, bajra raab, and local vegetables. Each bite tells a story, drawing from historical recipes yet remaining grounded in modern simplicity. Nitin Sud, the area general manager, eloquently states, “Luxury is not about amenities; it’s about hospitality and personalization.”
As I savor my final meal, accompanied by tequila shots and caramelized oranges, I reflect on the day’s journey-from exploring the narrow alleys of Jodhpur to the warm hospitality at Ajit Bhawan. This glimpse into royal life reveals that true luxury lies in a community deeply woven into the fabric of its culture, made rich by their time and talent.
In a world often overshadowed by distraction, Ajit Bhawan stands as a reminder of the elegance found in history and the warmth of genuine connections. A weekend retreat here offers not just exquisite food but an authentic experience of Rajasthan’s royal past and vibrant present.
Original Source: https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/travel/at-jodhpurs-ajit-bhawan-lost-royal-recipes-are-revived-by-burying-them-underground/article70699470.ece
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Publish Date: 2026-03-04 18:06:00
