As dusk approaches during the sacred month of Ramadan, the atmosphere in Damascus, Syria becomes charged with anticipation. Hungry crowds flock to bakeries, eager to secure marook, a traditional sweet bread cherished during this period of fasting and reflection. This nightly ritual is a chaotic ballet of requests and hurried exchanges, as patrons press against glass counters, waving money, and urging young bakers to speedily fulfill their orders before the call to iftar—the breaking of the fast—sounds from nearby minarets.
Marook, a simple sesame-seed-encrusted sweetened bread, is deeply woven into the fabric of Syrian culinary tradition. Each year, its evolution continues to reflect modern tastes, with bakeries introducing an impressive array of flavors. This Ramadan, innovations include an Oreo-filled variety and a Dubai chocolate marook, catering to the adventurous palates of a younger generation while maintaining classic options beloved by older patrons. The price of marook varies, with individual loaves starting at approximately 4,000 Syrian pounds (under 50 cents), while more elaborate versions may escalate to 45,000 pounds.
At Al Jouzeh bakery, the atmosphere is frenetic as customers clamor for the day’s offerings. Ayah al-Homsi, 27, voices a common request for pistachio bubbly marook—a sought-after variety often sold out early. She opts instead for an Oreo-inspired flavor, noting that her family’s Ramadan table begins with traditional styles before venturing into new tastes. Despite the plethora of choices, some, like a family contemplating the array of flavors, leave empty-handed, overwhelmed by the decision.
From dawn, Al Jouzeh operates a tireless production line, relying on solar power, diesel generators, and scant government-supplied electricity to combat Syria’s frequent blackouts, a grim reminder of the ongoing 13-year civil war. Employees like Mohammad Hilwan, 20, take pride in preserving their cultural heritage while embracing modernization. As he fills loaves with white chocolate and sprinkles cookie crumbs, Hilwan reflects on the amalgamation of past and present: “The plain ones our grandfathers used to eat,” he says, acknowledging the changing culinary landscape.
In this bustling scene, Tareq al-Abyad, the bakery owner, oversees an impressive operation, turning out roughly 11,000 marook loaves daily across his three locations. The demand is relentless, and with only moments to spare before iftar, customers often forgo change to save precious seconds. One regular, known affectionately as “the hajji,” disappears into the dwindling crowd before collecting his change, a common occurrence amidst the frenzy.
Each night, this exciting exchange plays out against the backdrop of Syria’s struggles and resilience—culinary traditions endure, adapting and evolving through war and adversity. The drama over marook captures more than just a quest for sustenance; it reflects a deep cultural story of heritage, change, and unity during Ramadan, offering a slice-of-life narrative that is both timeless and timely.
Categories: Syria, Bread, Ramadan, Bakeries and Baked Products, Damascus (Syria), War and Armed Conflicts.
Tags: Ramadan sweet bread, Syrian culinary tradition, Marook, Damascus bakeries, war-torn Syria.
Original Source: https://www.nytimes.com/2025/03/26/world/middleeast/syria-ramadan-food-marook.html
Category : Syria,Bread,Ramadan,Bakeries and Baked Products,Damascus (Syria),War and Armed Conflicts
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Publish Date: 2025-03-26 15:06:00
